Page 18 - WCM 2022 Winter

He says it will be his last stop, bringing with him a lifetime of experience. Sue and Brian are joined by some seasoned veterans from the Rangeley dining scene, both from The Hungry Trout, which they owned and managed for many years, and from Forks in the Air, which I was fortunate enough to review for this magazine before it closed. This “A Team,” combined with Brian’s creativity and passion for world cuisine, has combined to kick things up a notch in the kitchen, perfecting the classics while exploring new territory, from the Caribbean to the Middle East.
“If I don’t change, I get bored,” Brian told me when we had a chance to chat before service started. In
one sense, he is referring to his return to fine dining after some gigs away from Maine, and years of
serving comfort food at the Trout, but mostly he was speaking of his plans for an ever-evolving menu that responds to the seasonal availability of ingredients. Even anchor items on the menu like the twelve-ounce Sirloin, and Cedar Plank Salmon will change with the seasons and availability of ingredients, such as locally harvested mushrooms and fresh blueberries, or imported blood oranges and fresh pineapple.
We started our “world tour” with an Asian-style Ahi Tuna, lightly seared, topped with sesame sauce, and served with seaweed salad, crisp wontons, wasabi aioli, and the essential pickled ginger: sushi-grade, clean
and delicious! We washed it down with a Tiny Tess,
a light and refreshing Session IPA from Lone Pine. Next, much to the delight of my partner who grew up in Florida, we found ourselves transported to the deep south with a bed of cheesy grits topped with tender and tasty barbequed ribs. From here, it was off to Morocco for spiced Rack of Lamb, artfully propped on a bed of roasted fingerlings, and accompanied by mint pistachio chutney and an English mint sauce
for an otherworldly and deeply satisfying mélange of flavors and textures. From our experience, and from conversations with fellow diners, it was clear that Chef Brian has a mastery of meats that only comes from decades of roasting, braising and grilling. We found it all “melt in your mouth” amazing, and others chimed in with rave reviews as well.
The deserts are no joke either! Variations on Crème BrÛlée, Chocolate Torte, Key Lime Pie and Lemon Curd share the stage with the Maine Classic Whoopie Pie, New York Cheesecake, and one of the best
carrot cakes I’ve ever tasted. All with “no calories or carbs,” Sue added with a wink, as she delivered three selections to the couple celebrating their anniversary at the next table.
French Cuisine Close to Home
Corey Sumner has been crafting fine French cuisine at Maurice Restaurant, a South Paris institution,
Nothing says French Cuisine like Escargot, and nobody in Maine does Escargot better than Owner/Chef Corey Sumner at Maurice Restaurant in South Paris. Served with puffed pastry and herbed garlic butter, it is a rare and delectable treat. Dry white wine highly recommended!
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